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Post by chinchillies on Mar 28, 2021 23:52:22 GMT
Hi! I have a rescue chinchilla who was severely abused. She came from a petstore that shoved her in a cage with 4 other chinchillas, both male and female. She was attackednover and over, while being confined to a small, dirty environment. She was rescued and the shop was shut down, and I adopted her. However, when rescued, she was forcfully fed medicine to treat her injuries, which is suspected to be her only human interaction before me. How can I tame and calm her down? She's afraid of everything, has low self-confidence, and throws poop. She slso steals my glasses and chews on them, will sometimes pee on her hay, and is very fearful of everything. How can I help her, keep her calm, and get her used to human companionship. Also, should I get her a friend, because she spent her whole life with other chins, or should I just keep her alone because of her being constantly attacked? She's territorial from what I can tell, but adores attention, even though she'sxalso terrified. She also has a 100% fleece pillow she frequently sleeps with and carries around.
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Post by deguconvert on Mar 29, 2021 6:02:40 GMT
Hello, Chinchillies, and welcome to the forum!
I am not experienced with Chins, but I can tell you that poop throwing is normal. Degus, which are cousins of chins, do it as well . . . and so consistently that we actually make jokes about it, and talk about finding their poop in the weirdest places . . . wallets, backpacks, coat pockets, shoes that are in other rooms, and so forth. As well . . . peeing on the hay, also very normal. NO idea how you stop that. LOL
To help her get used to your presence, I would suggest pulling up a comfortable chair, grabbing a book, and reading. Or doing something else that you can do while sitting near her cage. Talk to her an a gentle and soft voice. Give her a hide that is a good fit for her, that she can climb into if she feels exposed. Do that for a couple of weeks and look for indications that she is 1. Adjusting to her new environment, and cage. 2. That she is no longer jumpy or reactive to your movements, voice, and the noises you make just in general.
If things are looking good . . . maybe you can start resting your hand inside the cage for her to get used to. BUT . . . I'm going to hope that some chin people will comment here.
Again . . . welcome!
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Post by chinchillies on Mar 30, 2021 20:51:40 GMT
Thank you! I will try some of these. I have had her for nearly a year now, but it seems like she's still so skittish. I feel so bad for her. I will maybe try to just ho slow with her, back it up to the beginning and restart a little.
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Post by bouncy on Mar 31, 2021 11:30:04 GMT
It may be that she remains skittish through no fault of your own. Some are just naturally that way. I have degu cousins. One of the delinquents that I've had since five weeks still won't let me handle him and runs if I come near, but will happily jump up and sit on the beanbag next to me if I stay still. He'll be three this year.
DC's advice is exactly what I would have said!
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Post by chinchillies on Apr 1, 2021 0:37:53 GMT
All right, thank you then. Anyone think I should get her a friend, knowing her history?
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Post by deguconvert on Apr 1, 2021 17:00:19 GMT
I am really not sure! I have wondered that . . . but there is no way of knowing how she will react. It could be a matter of personalities, or it could have been related to the tiny and dirty cage, of BOTH! Clearly the pet store was only concerned with selling stock, not caring for their health and their physical requirements.
I think the only way to truly know how she would react would be to bring in another Chin . . . but have that Chin in it's own cage for the purposes of introductions and safety.
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Post by winic1 on Apr 1, 2021 18:06:56 GMT
If you do bring in another chin, I would plan on a very long and very slow introduction. Her previous experience with other chins was really, really bad. So, if you bring in another, I'd start with it in its own cage at a great distance from hers, so she can hear, and maybe smell, another chin, but there's no way she can see it or feel like it's coming to attack her. If she's okay with another chin at a great distance, then slowly, daily, or even just weekly, move it closer. If she starts to respond with nervousness or alarm, back off a little and slow it down. And then continue that very, very, slow, cautious progression towards getting them together. Any time she looks upset by it, back off and hold at that point until she looks comfortable with things before starting any forward progress again.
If you bring another chin in, and even at a distance she just completely panics or freaks out by it, then you'd know that it's just not a good idea at all. Maybe you can find one at a rescue who would let you take one on a trial basis?
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Post by winic1 on Apr 1, 2021 18:16:11 GMT
If you do bring in another chin, I would plan on a very long and very slow introduction. Her previous experience with other chins was really, really bad. So, if you bring in another, I'd start with it in its own cage at a great distance from hers, so she can hear, and maybe smell, another chin, but there's no way she can see it or feel like it's coming to attack her. If she's okay with another chin at a great distance, then slowly, daily, or even just weekly, move it closer. If she starts to respond with nervousness or alarm, back off a little and slow it down. And then continue that very, very, slow, cautious progression towards getting them together. Any time she looks upset by it, back off and hold at that point until she looks comfortable with things before starting any forward progress again.
If you bring another chin in, and even at a distance she just completely panics or freaks out by it, then you'd know that it's just not a good idea at all. Maybe you can find one at a rescue who would let you take one on a trial basis?
Whether you do get her a friend or not, I agree with what the others have said about making her more comfortable with you. Slowly, slowly, gently, with all things. Back off and wait for her to be comfortable enough to come to you, not you reaching for her and not giving her the choice. Hands are scary things when you're a tiny animal in a cage. Hands that gently, quietly, leave food and water and treats and then retreat from your space are not so scary, and can become friends after a while. Maybe she'll never want to be touched or held or come running up to you. But at least maybe she'll understand she doesn't need to fear.
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Post by chinchillies on Apr 2, 2021 19:38:51 GMT
These are great ideas! I think I might try working with her to get her fully comfortable with me, -whatever that means for her- and in a few months-a year down the road, I'll see about getting her a friend. She seems to want interaction, as she's always near the doors of her cage, and is always 'grooming,' sleeping with, and carrying her pillow around. She just doesn't like to be touched or talked to, and will freak out over any sudden movement, loud sound, or my hands getting too close to her or her hides. So I'll work with her first, then try to introduce a friend, so that maybe she can have someone else to interact with.
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