Putting 2 P@H cages together

[spottydegu]

So knowing that 1 P@H thickets cage is too small I am getting one more to put on top. I am new to the world of DIY so not sure How to do it

www.amazon.co.uk/Nylon-Tree-Tries-Cable-140mm/dp/B015EFVAIQ/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468676515&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=chicken+wire+attatching
Would these be suitable for attaching or will my goos attack them?


As lots may know there is a sort of stand that is about 2-3 cm high. I will take that off then put in the metal tray. That will mean I will have to add a bit at the side to make the way to get into the second cage.  Shall I use the attaching things (linked above) to conect chicken wire and make a little slope or is there something else I could do? 


How small does the chicken wire have to be?
If any of this doesn't make sense I will respond to questions!

[moletteuk]

You need to use metal clips or plain metal wire for securing the cages together. The clips are called J-clips www.amazon.co.uk/Miller-Mfg-ACC1-Wire-Cage/dp/B000FJX85A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468687746&sr=8-2&keywords=j+clips

The amazon link also links to some pliers for attaching them, but it is probably possible to put them on with ordinary pliers. You can use regualar wire just wrapped round and the ends twisted together with pliers.

I'm not following you with the height problem, but I've never had a thickets cage, so it might be clearer to somebody who has. Are you stacking the cage and want to connect them with an external mesh tube?

Generally square mesh is better than chicken wire, you can buy a single sheet of square mesh in Wickes for £5 or so.

I'm sure there are pics of stacked thickets cages in the show us your cage thread, and probably stand alone threads too, try earlier on in the Show Us thread.

[bouncy]

I would use a pair of pliers to make a square opening in the top of the bottom cage, then put the second one on top without the tray. I've used a reel or gardening wire before, using it like sewing to join the two together. You can then put a floor down on the new second storey.

[spottydegu]

Jul 16, 2016 21:45:28 GMT bouncy said:

I would use a pair of pliers to make a square opening in the top of the bottom cage, then put the second one on top without the tray. I've used a reel or gardening wire before, using it like sewing to join the two together. You can then put a floor down on the new second storey.

One question. When I put the tray back in wont it block the hole I made?

[bouncy]

You can either cut the tray with a hacksaw, or use the top of the bottom cage as the floor of the top one and cover it with something like a hemp mat, no tray required.

[moletteuk]

Most people connect them as Bouncy describes, it's probably a more secure solution. If you like the trays, if you have the right tools (drill and hacksaw or jigsaw) then it shouldn't be difficult to cut the hole in the tray and then you could even put some wooden edging around the hole so you don't lose all your substrate down the hole (I would probably attach edging with self tapping screws into the tray).

Your solution with the external route is a good one if you want to keet the trays in tact. You just need to make sure your new connecting tube is securely made and attached.

[spottydegu]

Bouncys idea is good but what would be easiest?

[bouncy]

Unless you're 100% confident you can join the tube without chance of escape, or you can deal with escapees, I wouldn't consider that approach.

Just a pointer if you use the wire approach, use your pliers to pull the wire through, or your hands may not forgive you

[spottydegu]

Jul 17, 2016 12:23:52 GMT bouncy said:

Unless you're 100% confident you can join the tube without chance of escape, or you can deal with escapees, I wouldn't consider that approach.

Just a pointer if you use the wire approach, use your pliers to pull the wire through, or your hands may not forgive you

I think I will go with your Idea and cover the wire with some tightly pulled clingfilm or something!

[moletteuk]

What's the clingfilm for?

[spottydegu]

so the sawdust doesnt go through the bars

[Bexi87]

I wouldn't use cling film as I can't imagine it's too good for the degus if they eat it.

You can line the shelves with pine or attach Perspex to the outside of the cage to stop the substrate falling through the bars

[spottydegu]

www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/richard-burbidge-stripwood---pine---2400-x-36-x-4mm-713489
would this be suitable wood? Because it is all processed in a factory etc I didn't know whether it would be ok.

[bouncy]

That is fine. 

Any kiln-dried pine is fine!

[moletteuk]

Is this for right round the edge of the cage, or for around the hole?

The wood you link to is safe, but it is so thin that degus could make mincemeat of it very rapidly. To be suitable for degus you need to look for kiln dried softwood, usually anything in UK DIY shops that is planed is also kiln dried, so you can look for planed softwood too. I can't find what you need in Homebase, they don't stock much timber, but this is what I would recommend from Wickes for making edging for right round the perimeter (It's 18mm thick so they can still chew it but it will take longer for them to do much damage):
www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Whitewood-PSE-18x94x2400mm-Single/p/107019

If you were making a little edgeing for around a hole in the base, I would use something thicker but lower, maybe something like this:
www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Whitewood-PSE-34x34x1800mm-Single/p/107027

Does that sound OK, do you feel like your plan is progressing?

[spottydegu]

Jul 21, 2016 9:38:20 GMT moletteuk said:

Is this for right round the edge of the cage, or for around the hole?

The wood you link to is safe, but it is so thin that degus could make mincemeat of it very rapidly. To be suitable for degus you need to look for kiln dried softwood, usually anything in UK DIY shops that is planed is also kiln dried, so you can look for planed softwood too. I can't find what you need in Homebase, they don't stock much timber, but this is what I would recommend from Wickes for making edging for right round the perimeter (It's 18mm thick so they can still chew it but it will take longer for them to do much damage):
www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Whitewood-PSE-18x94x2400mm-Single/p/107019

If you were making a little edgeing for around a hole in the base, I would use something thicker but lower, maybe something like this:
www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Whitewood-PSE-34x34x1800mm-Single/p/107027

Does that sound OK, do you feel like your plan is progressing?

Thank you, that was very useful.

Now it is the summer holiday I am not focusing on school and can work on it.
It will (hopefully) be ready by the time the summer hols are over!

[spottydegu]

I have now attached them. I went for a different idea in the end.

I used a p@H purple tube and got a set of these:
www.johnhopewell.co.uk/default.asp?template=productdetail.page.xml&productId=129

It is really good because I can pull out the purple tube and put little doors on if I need to separate them.
Still need to move stuff to the other cage but doing that today,
Chip is on a mini strike about the new cage but I will make it so she has to cross into both of them!

[bouncy]

Cool!

How are you going to protect the plastic tube from chewing? Because it's a concertina, it be easy for them to get their teeth into.

Do you still plan to add complete levels to both cages to maximise their CARA?

[spottydegu]

the tubes where cheap and they are only chewing the bit in the cage right now (not a disaster.) I am plannign to add more shelves.

[Bexi87]

Looking good. I'd look into finding something more permanent for the tube - they would get through the plastic in a matter of minutes if/when they decide to.