Post by deguconvert on Nov 8, 2021 19:11:43 GMT
SO!! You're wondering if your degu might be pregnant!! Welcome to this post. Here we will try to inform you of what degu pregnancy and parenting etc. is about. We hope this will be very helpful to you.
OK!
GESTATION AND APPEARANCE OF A PREGNANT DEGU
Degu gestation is a rather long one, when compared to other rodents. Hamsters gestate for 20-23 days, rats for 21-24 days, gerbils for 24-26 days . . . to give you some comparisons. Degus gestate for 89-90 days. The first two months there will be very little to confirm your suspicions, as there is often very little change in appearance, though there may be some changes to weight. The last month of gestation the pregnant degu will begin to rapidly put on weight, and her shape will change from long and sleek to, "OOPS!! I ate a tennis ball in my sleep!" Your degu may have anywhere from 1-10 pups, but most litters are 5-6 pups in size.
Start looking for a degu experienced Vet, if you don't already have one. Better to be prepared than not. We have a thread where people have recommendations for vets that they have found to be very good. Here is a link for your convenience. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/15521/vet-guide
The closer she comes to the birth of her pups, the more uncomfortable and irritable she will become. It is really important that you do not try to be lifting and carrying her around. By this stage the muscle of her uterus are greatly stretched, and the potential that the uterus may tear or rupture is significant. This would be a life threatening injury to herself and to the pups. If it is possible, it would be good to ensure that there are not ledges or drops in your cage that she may fall off of. Even a short fall in the cage could cause a terrible injury. Because of her size, her movements are awkward and her balance is off, so do all you can to make her home a safe one for her, and once they are born, for her pups.
A strong indicator that delivery of the pups is just days away is the appearance of nipples, which are located along her sides. Not down the center of her belly, but just at the curve where the belly and flank join. They will have been invisible before this point, but in these last days they start to stand out from her body, and you will see that there is a circle around each one that is bald of hair. This is so that the pups can easily find them and nurse.
DADDY DEGU
Lets mention daddy degu at this point. If he is still with the female, he MUST be REMOVED, especially if her nipples are now visible. Male degus are awesome parents, and are an excellent help to the mother, so there is no fear for the pups. HOWEVER, female degus are at their most fertile IMMEDIATELY following the birth of a litter of pups, and continue to be for at least 48 hours following. What this means is she is very receptive to mating again, and her body is ready to make more pups. It is highly likely that if the male is still in the same cage, your female will become pregnant again and you will have a second litter of pups in 89-90 days. This is very hard on the female body and is not good for her health. Since the female cycle can vary around the 21 day mark, it quickly becomes impossible to accurately gauge when the female is in estrus and so we do not recommend attempting to place dad back in with mom between her fertile times.
If you are set on having the male with the female . . . seek out a veterinary that has long experience with neutering degus. MAKE SURE they are someone that has done more than a handful of successful neutering surgeries if at all possible. Seriously!! Degus do not have typical rodent anatomy, where the testes are carried on the outside of the abdominal wall. Degu testes are inside the abdominal cavity, and because of that they require a much more complex surgery. Vets unfamiliar with the surgery, though well meaning, have often had grievous results. Don't be afraid to ask direct questions of your vet so that you can be sure of their knowledge. IE . . . where are the testes found on a male degu? If they think they are on the outside of the abdominal wall just beneath the skin, don't take your degu there for the surgery.
As well, your male must remain separated from the females for a full six weeks following the surgery. This is to ensure that there are no live sperm remaining, because sperm is stored in additional locations, apart from the testes. To avoid pregnancy, waiting six weeks following a neuter surgery is very important.
I would like to just say here, we very much encourage same sex groups, so that surgeries like this are not necessary. However, we know that degus are often wrongly sexed and mistakes happen. This is a very big surgery and it is very hard on the degu. We recommend that degus be at least a year of age before being neutered.
Spaying a female is even more difficult on the animal, and we strongly advise against it.
NESTING
Momma degu has likely been building a nest as well. Leave this nest undisturbed. This will be a place she has put effort into making safe and warm for her pups. Don't be afraid to offer her kitchen paper, or loo roll, to add to it. Giving her extra substrate to work with is also very good. These are all materials she will be glad to have to be able to make a place for her pups to be born and cared for. If you have never included a nesting box for your degu(s), giving her/them a plain, roomy, cardboard box once you see the pear shape developing is a good idea, BUT this doesn't mean that she will definitely build a nest in it. She may, but she may not . . . degus are stubborn and strong minded, LOL, and she will build her nest where she wants to. You need leave this nest as it is for at least two weeks after the pups have been born. Really . . . if you can stand to do it . . . just leave it for four weeks after birth.
CAGE PREP AND SAFETY
You need to prepare your cage for the safety of the pups BEFORE they are born.
In order to do so, we recommend that you affix cardboard to the outside perimeter of your cage. Make sure it is at least 10 - 15 cm in height, and is firmly anchored so that it can't be moved. You want it on the outside so that it can't be easily destroyed by degu teeth. Cardboard is suggested because it is not expensive and is easy to replace. You do not want your pups to have access to ledges or other levels for the first four weeks, so if you have a multi-level cage, make sure the upper reaches of your cage can no longer be accessed.
Remove the wheel or flying saucer.
Make sure the room you keep your degus in is not susceptible to chills and drafts. You don't want the pups in a chilly room.
It is good to have multiple water bottles and food dishes, which are not needed immediately, but should be available to pups by the age of two weeks. We also recommend that you have a water bottle placed low enough for the pups to be able to easily reach it for drinking. Often our bottles are placed for adult sized degus that are sitting up on their haunches to drink. Pups are too small to access water bottles placed at this height.
Do keep the dust bath handy and available. Mother degu will appreciate the bath, and the pups will need to learn how to use it.
It is also important to know that if you have a metal cage, the bar spacing is crucial. The bars should be no greater than 1 cm apart. This is not just in the case of pups, but really with degus of all ages, the 1 cm bar spacing is the best route to follow.
WHY is this necessary?
PUPS!
Degu pups are born running! Not all of them will be racing from the get go, but you will be amazed by how quickly they move about. They are adorable and busy. They are fully furred, their eyes are open, and they are immediately mobile. They are curious about EVERYTHING, and will investigate everything they see and can get to. They are tiny, so they can walk right through the bars of your cage, which is why you need the cardboard guard around the outside.
This is important . . . count your pups!! You need to know how many you have so that you can know if one, or more than one, is missing. Know their numbers, and then count them OFTEN. They are masters of escape, and the sooner you know that you need to go looking, the better. If you have done a really good job of making your cage secure for them, you shouldn't need to worry. (Personal story . . . in our home through different and unexpected events, we learned to discern the difference between male and female anatomy, learned that an eight week old male can impregnate females, and that determined young degus can find ways to escape that are not readily obvious. Make a point of frequently checking your cage for potential escape points. EVEN points that look impossible. They can squeeze through the smallest of places.)
You also need to know that degu pups cannot self regulate their body temperature until they are at least four weeks of age. For that reason, if you are checking your cage and see a pup running about by itself, reach in and touch it. If it is cool to the touch, cup it in your hands and warm it up. Once it is warm again, return it to the nest. (Do NOT use warm water to warm up your pups. Degus do not swim well, or at all.)
Don't be afraid to touch the pups. Touching them will not put the mother off of them, nor cause her to turn on them and kill them. You can handle them confidently within days of their birth. HOWEVER, they are fast and wobbly and they can quickly fall out of your hands. If you are going to handle them, keep your hands cupped around them and be sure to be sitting on the floor in a warm area. If at all possible to be inside an enclosed area like a playpen, that has open sight lines, and no furniture or fabrics under which a degu might run and become hidden.
You will notice that within a week from birth, the pups will begin nibbling on solid foods. This is completely normal. The pups will be weaned by four weeks of age or shortly there after. You may also see them picking up soft poo pellets to eat . . . ALSO completely normal, and entirely healthy for them. This ensures that the good bacteria needed in their gut for good digestion is not eliminated and lost, but is continually reintroduced and maintained. All degus do this.
Do not separate your pups from their mother until they are six weeks of age. Learning degu culture and behaviors is extremely important, as degus are highly social animals. They live in colonies naturally, and knowing how to interact, to know their place in the hierarchy of the colony, to understand grooming and communication, are all crucial to them being healthy and happy degus as they grow. Having six full weeks with their mother/other adult female degus that may also be living in the cage is very important. Pups that are removed before this age struggle greatly and are often less likely to form healthy and happy bonds with other degus.
FOOD
FOR MOMMA DEGU
Providing nutrition for those multiple pups is a big demand on the mothers body. She requires UNLIMITED access to an excellent source of food to produce the milk the pups need, as well as to build up her body again following the demands of pregnancy, birth, and the feeding and care of her pups. The mother will be glad to have the food located near to the nest so she doesn't have to go far to have a quick meal.
In particular the mother will need extra calcium and extra calories. High calcium foods include forage and certain types of seeds, such as dill, nigella, celery, fennel, cumin and coriander. Forage should be fed in a variety and can include kitchen herbs, tree leaves, various hays and grasses, safe meadow, hedgerow and garden plants which can be bought, grown or collected and fed fresh or dried. Nuts and regular oil seeds can be useful for extra calories but be aware that they are high in phosphorus and low in calcium which can cause a mineral imbalance in the diet affecting dental and bone health, just as grains do. See diet section for more info and suppliers.
Here is a link to one thread, out of many others that are also very good. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/15794/internet-shops-specialist-degu-foods
The dietary needs of degus in general are not so simple as only pellets and hay . . . there are many, many things that make up their diet in the wild, and domestic degus thrive with a similar diet. Here is a quick read to help you to become more familiar. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/16425/degu-feeding-guidehttps://deguworld.proboards.com/thread/16425/degu-feeding-guide
As a general rule, when degus are being fed a diet such as those recommended in the above link, there are rarely issues with over eating. If you are careful to not include foods high in sugars or added sugars (Sucrose, glucose, fructose, molasses, dried fruits, etc.), over eating and obesity are rarely encountered.
FOR YOUR PUPS
Pups are VORACIOUS eaters, so you will need to have even greater amounts of food on hand than you may be accustomed to giving. They will be testing and eating the same foods you have made available to their mother, all of which will be healthy and good for the pups as well. You might be rather astonished by the amount those little bodies can pack away. As you know, by the time they are four weeks old they will be mostly weaned and on solid foods. You will still see them going to Mom for the occasional nurse however. LOL!
AT SIX WEEKS OF AGE
Having said that . . . have new homes already set up and ready for them once they are six weeks of age. Whether this is homes with new humans, or in your own home, their new cage/home needs to be ready for them to go into it. Your pups need to have the sexes separated at this time, all the females in their own cage, all the males in a separate cage. This is important, because young degus that have had excellent nutrition sources also sexually mature quickly. It is highly probable that any six week old females exposed to an intact adult male will be impregnated, and it is also documented that young males can impregnate females by the age of 8 weeks. That doesn't give you two weeks more time to separate them . . . be proactive and have them separated at six weeks, or at the very latest by the time they are 7 weeks of age. Naturally the female pups can remain with momma goo, so long as her cage is large enough to accommodate their numbers.
For your convenience, here is a link to help you with distinguishing the sexes. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/13070/degus
Degu pups are very, very active, so please DON'T put them in small hamster cages or the like. They need every bit of the space, and even more, than what adult degus require. They may be tiny, but they are built to cover a lot of ground, they are distance runners. They need a lot of surface space on which to run and move about. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/9396/forums-cage-size-recommendations Wheels are great and most degus love them . . . but they are NOT a substitute for the recommended surface area.
OK!
GESTATION AND APPEARANCE OF A PREGNANT DEGU
Degu gestation is a rather long one, when compared to other rodents. Hamsters gestate for 20-23 days, rats for 21-24 days, gerbils for 24-26 days . . . to give you some comparisons. Degus gestate for 89-90 days. The first two months there will be very little to confirm your suspicions, as there is often very little change in appearance, though there may be some changes to weight. The last month of gestation the pregnant degu will begin to rapidly put on weight, and her shape will change from long and sleek to, "OOPS!! I ate a tennis ball in my sleep!" Your degu may have anywhere from 1-10 pups, but most litters are 5-6 pups in size.
Start looking for a degu experienced Vet, if you don't already have one. Better to be prepared than not. We have a thread where people have recommendations for vets that they have found to be very good. Here is a link for your convenience. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/15521/vet-guide
The closer she comes to the birth of her pups, the more uncomfortable and irritable she will become. It is really important that you do not try to be lifting and carrying her around. By this stage the muscle of her uterus are greatly stretched, and the potential that the uterus may tear or rupture is significant. This would be a life threatening injury to herself and to the pups. If it is possible, it would be good to ensure that there are not ledges or drops in your cage that she may fall off of. Even a short fall in the cage could cause a terrible injury. Because of her size, her movements are awkward and her balance is off, so do all you can to make her home a safe one for her, and once they are born, for her pups.
A strong indicator that delivery of the pups is just days away is the appearance of nipples, which are located along her sides. Not down the center of her belly, but just at the curve where the belly and flank join. They will have been invisible before this point, but in these last days they start to stand out from her body, and you will see that there is a circle around each one that is bald of hair. This is so that the pups can easily find them and nurse.
DADDY DEGU
Lets mention daddy degu at this point. If he is still with the female, he MUST be REMOVED, especially if her nipples are now visible. Male degus are awesome parents, and are an excellent help to the mother, so there is no fear for the pups. HOWEVER, female degus are at their most fertile IMMEDIATELY following the birth of a litter of pups, and continue to be for at least 48 hours following. What this means is she is very receptive to mating again, and her body is ready to make more pups. It is highly likely that if the male is still in the same cage, your female will become pregnant again and you will have a second litter of pups in 89-90 days. This is very hard on the female body and is not good for her health. Since the female cycle can vary around the 21 day mark, it quickly becomes impossible to accurately gauge when the female is in estrus and so we do not recommend attempting to place dad back in with mom between her fertile times.
If you are set on having the male with the female . . . seek out a veterinary that has long experience with neutering degus. MAKE SURE they are someone that has done more than a handful of successful neutering surgeries if at all possible. Seriously!! Degus do not have typical rodent anatomy, where the testes are carried on the outside of the abdominal wall. Degu testes are inside the abdominal cavity, and because of that they require a much more complex surgery. Vets unfamiliar with the surgery, though well meaning, have often had grievous results. Don't be afraid to ask direct questions of your vet so that you can be sure of their knowledge. IE . . . where are the testes found on a male degu? If they think they are on the outside of the abdominal wall just beneath the skin, don't take your degu there for the surgery.
As well, your male must remain separated from the females for a full six weeks following the surgery. This is to ensure that there are no live sperm remaining, because sperm is stored in additional locations, apart from the testes. To avoid pregnancy, waiting six weeks following a neuter surgery is very important.
I would like to just say here, we very much encourage same sex groups, so that surgeries like this are not necessary. However, we know that degus are often wrongly sexed and mistakes happen. This is a very big surgery and it is very hard on the degu. We recommend that degus be at least a year of age before being neutered.
Spaying a female is even more difficult on the animal, and we strongly advise against it.
NESTING
Momma degu has likely been building a nest as well. Leave this nest undisturbed. This will be a place she has put effort into making safe and warm for her pups. Don't be afraid to offer her kitchen paper, or loo roll, to add to it. Giving her extra substrate to work with is also very good. These are all materials she will be glad to have to be able to make a place for her pups to be born and cared for. If you have never included a nesting box for your degu(s), giving her/them a plain, roomy, cardboard box once you see the pear shape developing is a good idea, BUT this doesn't mean that she will definitely build a nest in it. She may, but she may not . . . degus are stubborn and strong minded, LOL, and she will build her nest where she wants to. You need leave this nest as it is for at least two weeks after the pups have been born. Really . . . if you can stand to do it . . . just leave it for four weeks after birth.
CAGE PREP AND SAFETY
You need to prepare your cage for the safety of the pups BEFORE they are born.
In order to do so, we recommend that you affix cardboard to the outside perimeter of your cage. Make sure it is at least 10 - 15 cm in height, and is firmly anchored so that it can't be moved. You want it on the outside so that it can't be easily destroyed by degu teeth. Cardboard is suggested because it is not expensive and is easy to replace. You do not want your pups to have access to ledges or other levels for the first four weeks, so if you have a multi-level cage, make sure the upper reaches of your cage can no longer be accessed.
Remove the wheel or flying saucer.
Make sure the room you keep your degus in is not susceptible to chills and drafts. You don't want the pups in a chilly room.
It is good to have multiple water bottles and food dishes, which are not needed immediately, but should be available to pups by the age of two weeks. We also recommend that you have a water bottle placed low enough for the pups to be able to easily reach it for drinking. Often our bottles are placed for adult sized degus that are sitting up on their haunches to drink. Pups are too small to access water bottles placed at this height.
Do keep the dust bath handy and available. Mother degu will appreciate the bath, and the pups will need to learn how to use it.
It is also important to know that if you have a metal cage, the bar spacing is crucial. The bars should be no greater than 1 cm apart. This is not just in the case of pups, but really with degus of all ages, the 1 cm bar spacing is the best route to follow.
WHY is this necessary?
PUPS!
Degu pups are born running! Not all of them will be racing from the get go, but you will be amazed by how quickly they move about. They are adorable and busy. They are fully furred, their eyes are open, and they are immediately mobile. They are curious about EVERYTHING, and will investigate everything they see and can get to. They are tiny, so they can walk right through the bars of your cage, which is why you need the cardboard guard around the outside.
This is important . . . count your pups!! You need to know how many you have so that you can know if one, or more than one, is missing. Know their numbers, and then count them OFTEN. They are masters of escape, and the sooner you know that you need to go looking, the better. If you have done a really good job of making your cage secure for them, you shouldn't need to worry. (Personal story . . . in our home through different and unexpected events, we learned to discern the difference between male and female anatomy, learned that an eight week old male can impregnate females, and that determined young degus can find ways to escape that are not readily obvious. Make a point of frequently checking your cage for potential escape points. EVEN points that look impossible. They can squeeze through the smallest of places.)
You also need to know that degu pups cannot self regulate their body temperature until they are at least four weeks of age. For that reason, if you are checking your cage and see a pup running about by itself, reach in and touch it. If it is cool to the touch, cup it in your hands and warm it up. Once it is warm again, return it to the nest. (Do NOT use warm water to warm up your pups. Degus do not swim well, or at all.)
Don't be afraid to touch the pups. Touching them will not put the mother off of them, nor cause her to turn on them and kill them. You can handle them confidently within days of their birth. HOWEVER, they are fast and wobbly and they can quickly fall out of your hands. If you are going to handle them, keep your hands cupped around them and be sure to be sitting on the floor in a warm area. If at all possible to be inside an enclosed area like a playpen, that has open sight lines, and no furniture or fabrics under which a degu might run and become hidden.
You will notice that within a week from birth, the pups will begin nibbling on solid foods. This is completely normal. The pups will be weaned by four weeks of age or shortly there after. You may also see them picking up soft poo pellets to eat . . . ALSO completely normal, and entirely healthy for them. This ensures that the good bacteria needed in their gut for good digestion is not eliminated and lost, but is continually reintroduced and maintained. All degus do this.
Do not separate your pups from their mother until they are six weeks of age. Learning degu culture and behaviors is extremely important, as degus are highly social animals. They live in colonies naturally, and knowing how to interact, to know their place in the hierarchy of the colony, to understand grooming and communication, are all crucial to them being healthy and happy degus as they grow. Having six full weeks with their mother/other adult female degus that may also be living in the cage is very important. Pups that are removed before this age struggle greatly and are often less likely to form healthy and happy bonds with other degus.
FOOD
FOR MOMMA DEGU
Providing nutrition for those multiple pups is a big demand on the mothers body. She requires UNLIMITED access to an excellent source of food to produce the milk the pups need, as well as to build up her body again following the demands of pregnancy, birth, and the feeding and care of her pups. The mother will be glad to have the food located near to the nest so she doesn't have to go far to have a quick meal.
In particular the mother will need extra calcium and extra calories. High calcium foods include forage and certain types of seeds, such as dill, nigella, celery, fennel, cumin and coriander. Forage should be fed in a variety and can include kitchen herbs, tree leaves, various hays and grasses, safe meadow, hedgerow and garden plants which can be bought, grown or collected and fed fresh or dried. Nuts and regular oil seeds can be useful for extra calories but be aware that they are high in phosphorus and low in calcium which can cause a mineral imbalance in the diet affecting dental and bone health, just as grains do. See diet section for more info and suppliers.
Here is a link to one thread, out of many others that are also very good. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/15794/internet-shops-specialist-degu-foods
The dietary needs of degus in general are not so simple as only pellets and hay . . . there are many, many things that make up their diet in the wild, and domestic degus thrive with a similar diet. Here is a quick read to help you to become more familiar. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/16425/degu-feeding-guidehttps://deguworld.proboards.com/thread/16425/degu-feeding-guide
As a general rule, when degus are being fed a diet such as those recommended in the above link, there are rarely issues with over eating. If you are careful to not include foods high in sugars or added sugars (Sucrose, glucose, fructose, molasses, dried fruits, etc.), over eating and obesity are rarely encountered.
FOR YOUR PUPS
Pups are VORACIOUS eaters, so you will need to have even greater amounts of food on hand than you may be accustomed to giving. They will be testing and eating the same foods you have made available to their mother, all of which will be healthy and good for the pups as well. You might be rather astonished by the amount those little bodies can pack away. As you know, by the time they are four weeks old they will be mostly weaned and on solid foods. You will still see them going to Mom for the occasional nurse however. LOL!
AT SIX WEEKS OF AGE
Having said that . . . have new homes already set up and ready for them once they are six weeks of age. Whether this is homes with new humans, or in your own home, their new cage/home needs to be ready for them to go into it. Your pups need to have the sexes separated at this time, all the females in their own cage, all the males in a separate cage. This is important, because young degus that have had excellent nutrition sources also sexually mature quickly. It is highly probable that any six week old females exposed to an intact adult male will be impregnated, and it is also documented that young males can impregnate females by the age of 8 weeks. That doesn't give you two weeks more time to separate them . . . be proactive and have them separated at six weeks, or at the very latest by the time they are 7 weeks of age. Naturally the female pups can remain with momma goo, so long as her cage is large enough to accommodate their numbers.
For your convenience, here is a link to help you with distinguishing the sexes. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/13070/degus
Degu pups are very, very active, so please DON'T put them in small hamster cages or the like. They need every bit of the space, and even more, than what adult degus require. They may be tiny, but they are built to cover a lot of ground, they are distance runners. They need a lot of surface space on which to run and move about. deguworld.proboards.com/thread/9396/forums-cage-size-recommendations Wheels are great and most degus love them . . . but they are NOT a substitute for the recommended surface area.